Most designers work with lush jacquard fabrics at some point in their careers. Known for their durability, complex patterns, and ornate beauty, jacquards have remained popular since their invention in the early 1800s. But what makes jacquard fabric so special? In short, it’s all about the process.
What is a jacquard fabric?
The term jacquard doesn’t refer to a specific material, print, or pattern, but rather a method of creating raised motifs in fabric by using a particular type of loom—the jacquard loom. While most fabrics are woven before colors and designs are added, jacquard prints and patterns are woven directly into the fabric as it’s being made. In other words, what makes jacquard upholstery unique is that the complex patterns are an integral part of the fabric itself, not decorative accents added later. That means cotton jacquard patterns, for example, are less likely to warp or fade over time compared to designs that are simply printed onto cotton fabric.
Sarah Henry, executive director of Paris-based luxury textile brand La Manufacture Cogolin, explains that this method results in a fabric that is “higher quality and much more special than [one that is] printed.” Another special characteristic of jacquard fabric, she adds, is that it “can blend graphic patterns with textures, or simply be a texture.” What’s more, jacquard can be created from almost any type of fabric, from luxurious silks and organic linens to simple cotton textiles.
How do today’s designers use jacquard?
Jacquard upholstery has been celebrated since its rise to popularity in the early 1800s. Now well-known and sought-after because of its uniquely textural surfaces and luxe connotations, jacquard can be spotted in a wide variety of interior styles, from elegant couches and upholstered banquettes to intricately patterned throw pillows, and regal, metallic jacquard place mats. Textile artists and globally recognized, pattern-friendly fashion designers like Diane Von Furstenberg frequently create using jacquard and damask prints; Marc Jacobs even teaches a MasterClass about using jacquards in fashion design. “Jacquard weaving adds a delicious complexity to fabrics, which brings a unique dimension to rooms and upholstery,” says Randy Kemper, partner and head of design at Ingrao, Inc., an architecture and design firm based in New York City. “They have their place in history, but what’s great is that the technique adds texture to solid fabrics, making them essential for modern interiors.”
“I use jacquards most often for upholstery—the sumptuous intricacy of their weave makes for a beautiful yet refined look,” says designer Jonathan Savage, head of the Nashville-based Savage Interior Design. “Jacquards are a great material for upholstering chairs and other furniture because they’re very structured. They don’t wrinkle or look messy, which makes them ideal for creating clean-lined interiors and more formal spaces.” He tends to favor contemporary, organic jacquard patterns like Intuition by Zimmer + Rohde, a linen-cotton blend jacquard featuring sketch-like brush strokes arranged in crisscrossing angles. “Unique graphic patterns feel more modern to me than old-school damask jacquards”—that is, double-sided jacquards woven with threads of contrasting luster—“but both can work in modern spaces if the use is limited. My advice would be to not overdo it!” he says.